Heading South to Alice

Banggerreng at Camooweal

After we left Gregory we had a hot afternoon of driving, but it even came with the occasional light shower.  However, the rain didn’t affect our cars performance, she boiled over again – but we are getting good at waiting and then filling her up again and continuing driving until the next time.  However, this did mean we hit Camooweal just after dark so decided not to do the lovely free camp there but to go with the roadhouse (a decision strongly influenced by our lack of food).

As Mr L was going to sleep he said he could see lightening and sure enough on the horizon was an amazing lightening storm.  While the boys slept David and I set up our chairs and watched the show.  The lightening started a fire, the red glow growing strongly with peaks jumping up.  After a while the wind started, we retreated to the van.  The winds grew and grew, the noise waking the boys who found it quite scary (actually so did I).  By now the winds were violent the van was being buffeted and blown.  We decided not to put up the windows as we were really concerned that the top of the could get torn off (it really was that strong).  Then rain started.  We must have looked a sight.  The boys and I huddled on the lounge with me cuddling them, David down the other end of the van holding a canvas over the bed to prevent the rain coming in.  We had heard about these, in Kakadu this is the season of Banggerreng, knock em down storms, this was a build up storm and we were in it.   

After it finished it went quiet quickly.  Somewhat shaken we all hopped back in our beds and eventually went to sleep.  I loved the intensity and force of the storm and would happily watch more build up storms, but maybe not in a Jayco Swan.  (PS David and I were right to be worried about the van, whilst she came through the frame is now a bit bent, we noticed when we went to setup the next night, getting the door in is a little more challenging these days).

We headed off the next morning travelling along the Barkly Highway.  It was 39 degrees much of the day, there is nothing to see and the car really struggled.  We had intended to drive through and camp at the Devils Marbles (we had hoped to do a sunset and sunrise there) but again the driving in the heat took its toll so we stopped for the night in Tennant Creek and all can I say their pool was simply delicious.

Devils Marbles

We did make it to the Devils Marbles the next morning while the day was still coolish.  We had a lovely time walking around the rocks and exploring this geological marvel.  The boys, as usual, read all the signs trying to work out how these were formed.  When we were on the top of the lookout Mr L discovered that some of the rocks sounded much more hollow than others.  All in all a good bit of scientific observation occurred here.

Awwww our white 4WD and Jayco Swan found a matching friend, they almost look like twins, except ours has its bonnet up trying to cool down as usual.

Mr C - If I just push really really hard I am sure it will move.  Mr  - I will meditate on bringing you strength.

 

Alice Springs Big 4

We arrived at Alice Springs and even made it while it was still daylight.  The choice of caravan park – again no brainer. After a couple of weeks away from large centres the whole family wanted some shopping, some swimming and some town fun.  And where could be a better place if you were a kid than the Big 4 in Alice Springs – three pools and 31m of sliding fun!

Anyone for a game of Marco Polo?

Even better – playing in the pool with friends.  We ran into the family we met in Adels Grove – the kids had a ball sometimes had the slide and all the pools to themselves!

East Macdonnell Ranges

After a day in town – and another visit to the mechanics (just checking on the radiator issue, a new squeak and a service – which they couldn’t get to for four days) – food shopping and our regular visit to the op shops for more books we were ready for some more adventure.  It was time to head out to the East Macs.

David and I had done neither the East or West Macs and had heard so much about the West Macs that they were high on our list this time.  But the East Macs – well I want to thank a couple of blogs for tipping us off to these.  It is a beautiful easy bitumen drive out as far as Trephina Gorge where there was some dirt road but the ones we took would have been fine for 2WDs.  Even the view along the drive was spectacular as the ranges ran too our left the whole way.  The biggest surprise though was how close the key sites were to Alice.  The first was only 15k down the road from our caravan park.

Yeperenye (Emily and Jessie Gap Reserve)

Emily Gap is 15k and Jessie Gap is 22k from town.  Both are short walks through the gaps in the ranges.   The gaps are significant as you can obviously walk through the ranges but it is also where water collects after rain.  And in the desert water is life.  The East Macs are also part of the caterpillar dreaming story for the Central Arrernte people.  There are examples of caterpillar dreaming art at both gaps, but the artwork in Emily Gap is especially clear and beautiful.  Whilst we have been fortunate to be exposed to a range of indigenous art in our travels this was the first time we had come across the caterpillar dreaming story and its distinctive art.  You are asked not to photograph the pictures so we haven’t.

Anthwerrke (Emily Gap)

 

 

Atherrke (Jessie Gap)

  

Antanangantana - Corroborree Rock Conservation Reserve

Corroborree rock is an impressive dolomite structure formed 800 million years ago.  It is a sacred men’s site for the Arrernte people.  There is a short walk through the scrub and spinifex around the rock.  The totally cool thing about this rock is that it is long and thin giving it totally different looks depending where on the walk you are.

Skinny Corroboree Rock

Long Corroborree Rock (with lots of spinifex)

Trephina Gorge

Trephina Gorge has a number of short to medium walks around the Gorge and a nearby waterhole.  We did the Ridgetop walk and then walked back through the Gorge itself.  This gorge is simply beautiful.  The cliffs were red and amazing.  The view from the top of the cliffs was sensational.  

We were even lucky enough to catch a mating dance by one of the local Spinifex pigeons – the boys were fascinated turning on their best David Attenborough perspectives and they observed what was happening.

After walking along the cliffs there was a lovely descent and then the walk through gorge really capped off a great experience.  As we walked we rated it as one of our better gorges and by now we have seen a few.

We finished our day with a visit to a 300 year old ghost gum tree – the largest one in Australia. 

We didn’t add in the walk to the waterhole (although we had time to do it as well) there was a strong chorus of take us back to the pools please coming from the back of the car.  Which is exactly what we did.

Many things in the Northern Territory make you feel small – this is one of them.