Climbing Uluru or Not!

Before I write about our journey to Uluru and Kata Juta I wanted to share my thoughts on a historic decision that happened just after our visit here.  David and I have visited Uluru twice (in 2004 and this time).  Both times we listened to the Anangu people and did not climb the rock:

Please don't  climb Uluru

"That's a really important sacred thing that you are climbing... You shouldn't climb. It's not the real thing about this place. And maybe that makes you a bit sad. But anyway that's what we have to say. We are obliged by Tjukurpa to say. And all the tourists will brighten up and say, 'Oh I see. This is the right way. This is the thing that's right. This is the proper way: no climbing."

— Kunmanara, traditional owner

 

We also learnt, while we were there this time, that the climb was damaging the rock and its precious waterholes.  All the waterholes around Uluru are so polluted by the urine and excrement (yes really) left by the climbers that the animals no longer drink there.  I was so worked up about this I was ready to take it up with a range of politicians and green groups on my return. 

But I didn’t have to.  On 1 November 2017 the decision has been taken to close the climb and protect the rock.  As you read on hopefully I can give you a small understanding of how amazing this place, this icon, this heart of Australia is.  We wanted everyone to know that we think this is the right decision.  Critics say this will reduce the numbers of people visiting Uluru.  Well I say we didn’t climb either time and it is still one of the most amazing places we have ever visited.  If you have the opportunity to visit – DO IT!  Don’t do a day tour – stay and explore.  There is a lot to see and learn in this special place.

You can read about the recent decision at

https://www.environment.gov.au/mediarelease/uluru-climb-close

Watarrka – Kings Canyon National Par

With a twinge of sadness, because we had enjoyed our stay at Glen Helen so much, we left the West Macs.  But it was time to tackle the next stage of our journey.  There are two ways to drive to Watarrka  (Kings Canyon)– the nice, safe but much longer (for us) sealed road, or there was the Mereenie Loop:

“The Mereenie Loop provides for an alternative scenic route from Alice Springs to Watarrka (Kings Caynon) and Uluru (Ayers Rock) via the Western Macs. ... The condition of Mereenie Loop Road surface is dirt and unsealed is seasonal with flash flooding with access sometimes limited due to weather and traffic.”

After all we had a full set of brand new tyres and we knew there was a regular flow of traffic on the road – so we took the Mereenie Loop.  Actually it wasn’t that bad.  There was at least 150k of dirt, but we passed the graders on our way through so apart from a few corrugated sections (and we had seen worse in the gulf country) it was not a bad drive and the scenery was beautiful.  You do need a permit to drive on this road as it goes through aboriginal land and they ask that you do not take pictures which we didn’t.  At the end of the loop the road is again sealed and you can begin to see why so many travelers come here with early views of the Gorge Gill Range (including Kings Canyon) tempting these travelers out of the car cameras at the ready.

 

Yep still the view from the road – actually the passenger seat window with the telephoto lens balanced on the sill.  Worked well didn’t it. 

There are only three main walks available and most people come to do the outer rim walk.  David and I had done it in 2004 so knew what we were up for.  This walk is closed after 9am on days greater than 36 – it is stony and there is not a hint of shade for most of the walk.  The rocks intensify the heat which is why they close it so early.  Still in spite of the forecast of 39 for that day we planned to be up early and underway hopefully by 7.  But then came the wind.  All night it howled a gale which continued that morning.  Neither David or I wanted to risk taking the kids up there in the force of that wind.  Whilst they were unlikely to be blown off the cliff, we could see them diving after their new hat.  We also thought that it wouldn’t be a pleasant experience so we limited ourselves to the two smaller walks and ended up at the campground pool in the afternoon for a considerable period of time.

Kathleen Springs Walk

Kathleen Springs is located 21km by road from Kings Canyon and has an easy walk suitable for anyone.  The walk runs through the creek bed area fringed with rusty red cliffs on either side.

 

 

There are signs along the path that tell the stories of Aboriginal Culture and the recent use by the cattle industry with the ruined stockyards alongside the walk.

  
The walk leads to a spring fed waterhole at the head of Kathleen Gorge.  The waterhole holds special significance for the local Aboriginal people and is important for wildlife, so swimming is not permitted.  The national park brochure says that this is a cool moist place to sit and enjoy the area’s tranquility – but David used the time to photograph some of the many dragonflies also enjoying the waterhole.  I just used my time photographing my boys.

 

Kings Creek

Whilst the rim walk traverses all around the creek area from up high, there is a short walk that leads up the creek and used to take you all the way to where the water falls over the cliffs.  However when we arrived we found out that there had been a very large rockslide just over a year ago so half the track was now closed.  It was still a pleasant but much shorter walk now.

 

Sunsets over Watarrka

We stayed at the resort camping ground – both for its pool (did I mention the 39 degree temperatures) but also because the resort is beautifully positioned for sunsets over the ranges.  As we were there two nights we used two different viewing areas to take photographs from.  Here are some of the results.

  

The wind howled all night again, so when it was time to leave we were quite glad to move on.  Beautiful and rugged though this place is.  We had found it a more difficult place to camp and definitely to sleep.